Marlin fishing in Jamaica

It was our first trip to the Caribbean: Two couples staying together in the Ocho Rios area, wanting to do it all—Dunn’s River Falls, river rafting, eating jerk pork purchased from a street vendor, and much more.

We walked the docks that were home to the fleet of charter fishing boats, checking fishing stories from the captains and returning fishermen. One story clinched it—a bedraggled fisherman talked about fighting a marlin for hours, only to have the captain cut his fishing line on purpose stating that for safety reasons it was time to return to port. Apparently the bilge pump was not working, and the captain was afraid of taking on water as evening approached. Or, maybe he had a hot date that evening.

So we negotiated a price for the following day for a more seaworthy vessel, and we headed far out to sea. In fact, we were so far out that we could no longer see the land. After the initial excitement wore off and the Dramamine kicked in, my three companions all dosed off. The quiet was broken by an agitated discussion between the captain and the first mate. As the boat turned, I gathered that they had actually seen a blue marlin on the surface and were swinging around to bring the bait to the fish. Soon the rod started jumping. The hook-setting procedure involved coordination between fisherman and captain. As the fisherman worked to set the hook, the captain revved the engines to supply greater hook-setting power. But, alas the line went slack, and the captain slowed the engines. More discussion with the first mate. Again, the rod started to bounce, and this time the hook was set and the fight was on.

My wife is normally prone to motion sickness. Despite that, she grabbed the video camera and climbed up to the swaying flying bridge to capture the action. Slowly, ever so slowly, we were working the fish closer to the boat. But, I could tell by the angle of the line that she was staying very deep. Suddenly that changed, and the fish was racing to the surface. I cranked up the slack as fast as I could. Majestically she flew out of the water, whipping her head back and forth. Back in the water, only to jump again. And again. And again. (Subsequent review of the video tape suggested that in less than 60 seconds, the fish broke water nearly 30 times! Accompanied, of course, by appropriate shrieks of excitement from the boat party). At the same time, she was stripping line and moving farther and farther from the boat.

She stayed hooked, and the process of reeling her in began anew. Finally, she was alongside the boat, gaffed and hauled in. The magnificent blue iridescence faded quickly. I am all for catch-and-release, but we had not discussed such issues with the crew, who expected extra remuneration by selling the fish to a local fish vendor upon returning. Soon we began the long journey back to port, and the first mate proudly hoisted the marlin flag signifying a successful catch. A small crowd had gathered at the dock, and I realized I had experienced beginner’s luck; most fishing expeditions did not have such a successful ending.

By marlin standards, she was not a big fish, as these magnificent beasts can easily attain 300-400 lbs or more. If memory serves, there is a facsimile fish mount hanging at the St Lucia airport portraying a marlin caught locally that exceeds 800 lbs!

The two airports of St Lucia

Many travelers and even travel professionals are confused by the two airport system in St Lucia. This post will help to sort out the historical and practical reasons for two airports and discuss the issues travelers face when planning a trip to St Lucia.

Hewanorra (from the Amerindian word for “place of the iguana”) is the international airport. Constructed in the late 1930’s by the US military (the US Navy had signal corps personnel here during WWII), it is located in the far southeastern corner of the island adjacent to the local town of Vieux Fort. This is the only area of this ruggedly mountainous island that has a large enough flat area to contain a long runway. Due to the prevailing easterly winds, the runway points to the east. Nearly all approaches to the runway are from the west over the sea. As the plane makes its final approach to landing, passengers on the left side of the aircraft are treated to spectacular views of the Pitons, and those on the right enjoy a hazy view of the mountains of St Vincent about 20 miles away.

This runway is long enough to accommodate the largest jets, so all international jet traffic must be routed into Hewanorra. If you are on an international flight from the UK or a North American gateway, this will be your destination airport. By Caribbean standards, this is a medium-sized airport. There are 8—10 duty-free shops and a couple of snack bars, plenty of available cabs, and tour operator and hotel reps to greet new arrivals.

Airport Transfers from Hewanorra—What to Expect

Since nearly all hotels and resorts on the island are located on the west side of the island (especially the northwest corner), all arrivals into Hewanorra face a lengthy cab ride to their hotel (Coconut Bay Resort is the one major hotel located near this airport, plus a few smaller hotels). Though the distance is only 20+ miles, the narrow, winding roads and traffic make it a slow commute. Travel to the Soufriere (Pitons) area will be around 45 minutes; travel to the many resorts north of Castries will be around 90 minutes. Still, this is an interesting journey—your first island tour! The route will take you along the Atlantic coast, up to Dennery, and across the interior where you will see your first excellent mountain vistas. Then you’ll follow a valley heading toward the Caribbean coast, entering the very interesting Caribbean city and sea port of Castries, which is home to most of the local populace (banana boats may be loading and cruise ships may be docked here). Exiting the city, you will pass the other airport as you enter the main roadway to the north en route to the many hotels and resorts of this neighborhood.

The second airport, the George F Charles Airport, is sometimes referred to as “Vigie” from the name of the locale. Named in honor of a prominent statesman of the 1950’s, this is a smaller airport with a smaller runway, so commercial jets are not allowed. This regional airport is serviced primarily by the regional airlines Liat and Caribbean Star (featuring the Dash 8 airliner which seats around 30 passengers), and American Eagle flights from San Juan (some US travelers reach St. Lucia via this route). Connections go to Barbados, St Vincent and the Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad, Martinique and Antigua. These are aboard a slightly larger turboprop aircraft seating around 60 passengers. Other international passengers may arrive here on a regional airline connecting to an international flight from nearby Barbados.

Services here are limited to a small snack bar and one very small duty-free shop. There are car rental booths, an organized cab system, and many tour operators or hotel reps to greet new arrivals. Pictures on the walls depict the runway as it was in the 1950’s—only a small shanty but no real terminal.

Once You’ve Landed
Arrivals at either airport will be expected to complete an immigration form and to speak first to an immigration officer and then a customs officer once luggage is claimed. Upon departure from either airport, each passenger will be assessed a departure tax of approximately $20 US.

In summary, the northern airport is much handier to most resorts and certainly much handier to the city of Castries. But, if arriving by jet from the UK or North America, this airport is simply not an option. American Airlines is the only carrier with scheduled flights to both airports. The airport of your arrival is not subject to your choice but is predetermined according to the airline you are flying.

Hot Tips
Some additional tips for airport transfers and cabs in St Lucia.
• If you have not prepaid for transfers, the cab fare is set by law and not metered.
• It is always appropriate to ask the fare before departure to avoid subsequent misunderstandings.
• Tipping is appropriate.
• Cab fare will vary according to precise destination and number of passengers; in general, the cost of a cab from Hewanorra to a northern resort will run around $75 US plus tip, and around $20 from George F Charles.

The two coasts of Barbados

The capitol of Bridgetown sits in the SW corner of Barbados and serves as the dividing point between the West coast and the South coast. With the notable exception of The Crane and a few small hotels in Bathsheba, every hotel and resort on the island will be located on or near one of these two coasts. What is the difference? Are there advantages to one or the other for a visitor to the island?

The prevailing easterly trade winds affect the most distinctive natural differences between the two. Because the wind invariably blows from East to West, the eastern coast has heavy surf—the primary reason there are no hotels on the East. There are some very nice beaches but they are not suitable for swimming or watersports activities.

This Easterly wind also bends around the south coast, creating a bit of wind and surf there as well for those beaches. It is not surprising that this is where the best windsurfing is located (and there are some world-class locals). These beaches are generally suitable for swimming; only during bad weather will the red “no swimming” flag be posted.

The West coast is on the leeward side of the island (the wind is blowing offshore not onshore). These bays and beaches are much calmer with very light surf. Snorkeling and nearly all day trips aboard private boats is perfect here along the calm West Coast.

The resorts, shops, restaurants, and other business establishments of each coast also exhibit a decidedly different “personality.”

The resorts along the South Coast will range from 2 to 4 stars. Prices for accommodations on the South coast tend to be relatively modest and reasonable.

The central locale of the South coast is St Lawrence Gap. Without a doubt, this is THE local hotspot, featuring a cobblestone walkway with gas lighting, and lined with one interesting restaurant or bistro after another. Barbados is known for its many wonderful (let me say it again—wonderful) restaurants, and several are located here in the “Gap.”

Between the Gap and Bridgetown, the area is busy with a variety of establishments including banks, gas stations, KFC, Chefette (the local fast food outlet featuring rotis to go), etc. strung along the South coast highway. Old and run-down buildings sit side-by-side with brand new buildings—evidence that many old structures are being replaced with new.

The West coast is sometimes referred to as the “Gold coast” or the “Platinum coast,” and is less intensive in its development. Some of the coast is the preserve of the rich and famous, whose stunning villas will occupy some of the beach area.

The center of the West coast is Holetown, the original English settlement which dates to the early 17th century. This has a delightful shopping area, including a series of “chattel house” shops. Outstanding restaurants are dotted here and there along the coast.

The West coast features mostly 4 and 5 star resorts. The accommodation costs for staying on the West coast will generally be higher than on the South coast of this lovely island, Barbados.

March packages to Antigua

Winter Escapes at Grand Pineapple!
Amidst 25 acres of tropical gardens, this resort enjoys a prime vantage point on the coast of Long Bay Beach. Secluded yet lively, there's plenty of variety to be found, from lazing on the long sandy beach, to snorkeling and sailing, to dancing to the sounds of live calypso bands. $1,299 per person for five nights all inclusive!!

Winter Escapes at Galley Bay!
Caribbean sunsets provide a vivid backdrop at this plush All-Inclusive resort on the west coast of Antigua. The group of thatched-roof huts resembles a Polynesian seafront village, and the elaborate lagoon-style pool is decorated with rocks and waterfalls. Activities include sailing, kayaking, and snorkeling. $2,295 per person for five nights all inclusive!

Winter Escapes at Dian Bay Resort & Spa!
This intimate escape has excellent views of one of the Caribbean's most scenic bays. Be pampered in tropical surroundings alongside the 3-tiered swimming pool and the white sand of the tranquil cove. Dine alfresco on the terrace, shaded by white umbrellas and palm trees. $1,169 per person for five nights all inclusive!

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